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A traditional houseboat cruising down the larger waterways with palm trees in the background

CRUISING THE BEAUTIFUL KERALA BACKWATERS ON A HOUSEBOAT

17th March 2024

Last Updated on 1st March 2026 by Bejal

One of the most synonymous things with visiting Kerala are the captivating palm lined, around 900 kilometres network of waterways referred to as the ‘backwaters’. Originally constructed to transport spices and rice to connecting regions in Kerala, and now on many visitors bucket list to cruise waterways on a houseboat along the beautiful Kerala backwaters.

In This Article

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  • Pin & Save
  • What is Special About the Beautiful Kerala Backwaters?
  • Cruising the Beautiful Kerala Backwaters on a Houseboat
  • Where are the Backwaters in Kerala?
  • When is the Best Time to Visit the Kerala Backwaters?
  • What is the Cruise Length on the Kerala Backwaters? 
  • What to Expect From a Kerala Houseboat
  • How to Select a Houseboat Company
  • How Many Crew Members are on the Overnight Cruise?
  • Pickadly Houseboats
    • What Should You Expect During the Overnight Cruise?
    • What is The Food Like on the Houseboat Cruise?
    • The Details
  • Responsible Ways To See The Backwaters
  • Sustainable Backwater Day Tours From Kochi
  • Boat Races on the Beautiful Kerala Backwaters
  • Things to do in Alleppey After Exploring the Backwaters
    • Alleppey Lighthouse
    • Alleppey Beach
    • Weaving & Saree Stores
    • International Coir Museum. 
  • Frequently Asked Questions – Beautiful Kerala Backwaters
    • Which is the Best Month to Visit the Kerala Backwaters?
    • When is the Worst Time to Visit the Kerala Backwaters?
    • How Can Tourists Ensure Houseboats are Licensed and Safe?
    • Is it Safe to Swim in Kerala Backwaters?
    • What is the Most Romantic Thing About the Backwaters?
    • Does Cruising the Backwaters Feel Quite Touristy?
  • Cruising The Beautiful Kerala Backwaters: Round-Up 
  • Related Articles: Beautiful Kerala Backwaters
  • Resources To Plan Your Trip
  • À bientôt
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This guide to cruising along the beautiful Kerala backwaters highlights everything you need to know about spending time on a Houseboat and what to expect during your time sailing along the labyrinth of canals. This includes advice on booking packages and selecting the class of houseboat, what happens on board during your stay including dining options, stops en route as well as more sustainable alternative options if you wish not to see the backwaters via a houseboat.

2 women and their children walking down the banks of the Kerala backwaters
Lady washing her clothes on the bank of the backwaters in Kerala
Beautiful Kerala backwaters: Washing drying on. aline on the banks of the small canal networjs .

What is Special About the Beautiful Kerala Backwaters?

Kettuvallam is traditionally the name of the boats made with joining wood together with rope made from coir (fibres of dried coconuts) and transported spices, rice and other essentials to the smaller remote villages that line the backwaters. Through the years, other forms of transport have replaced houseboats for their original purpose and therefore they are now serving the purpose of tourism. Thousands of visitors come to the backwaters of Kerala every year wanting to spend time gliding up and down houseboats in this area. It is inevitable one of Kerala’s biggest attractions. 

Canoe gliding down the larger backwater canal with 2 fishermen

Is is important to remember that the houseboats may no longer be used to transport daily essentials to the villages around the backwaters but the area is most definitely a concentration of local life. Fishing and farming as well as local houses, schools and community gathering spaces, these all consolidate that the area is inhabited by a whole community of residents.

Hiring a houseboat on the beautiful Kerala backwaters enables one to catch a rare opportunity to experience daily life on the canals. The serenity and calm is a world away from other parts of the state and allows visitors to immerse themselves into the backwater slow pace of life, coconut groves, paddy fields, toddy outlets, wildlife and those picture perfect landscapes that you will see including the red orange sunset reflecting off the water.

Cruising the Beautiful Kerala Backwaters on a Houseboat

Where are the Backwaters in Kerala?

The backwaters in Kerala run all the way from the main city of Kochi to the coastal end of Kollam, famous for its cashew production. There are also other backwaters in Kerala, towards the north of the state as well as the south, which are not so well known and are worth exploring for this very reason.

Alleppey is most definitely the gateway to the backwaters, and although there are a few things  that can go on your itinerary when visiting Alleppey town, by far the most popular activity is to partake cruising the backwaters upon a houseboat.

Alleppey is located approximately two hours drive to the south of Kochi and more often than not referred to as ‘the city of canals’ and compared to Venice, Italy. Alleppey is nicknamed, ‘Venice of the East’ and is most definitely the hub of the backwaters and houseboat tourism.  Some houseboats also leave via the canals near Kumarakom.

Fisherman steering the small

When is the Best Time to Visit the Kerala Backwaters?

The best time to visit the Backwaters is anytime between October and February. The temperatures are bearable, it’s not the Monsoon season and there is no real risk of flooding around the smaller canals. It is good to note that December and January, are classed as very high season with the Christmas break therefore Houseboats will be at their premium at this time.

Beautiful Kerala backwaters: Row of palm trees with their reflection in the deep blue of the backwaters.

What is the Cruise Length on the Kerala Backwaters? 

Typically Houseboat stays are one day (a boat can be hired for one full day with lunch and breakfast included) or for an overnight stay. This includes boarding at 12:00 noon, having, lunch, snacks, dinner and breakfast the next morning before departing around 09:30am.

It is possible to do a longer Houseboat trip with the possibility of three nights traversing different canal routes, opting for a larger boat class, we’d recommend the overnight backwater cruise. If you do fancy staying on the backwaters for a little longer, then a good option can be to combine a Houseboat stay with a Homestay or resort along the backwaters. A few accommodation options located here do also have their own Houseboats and can combine a houseboat stay overnight alongside their accommodation. Some even do romantic sunset cruises if you book a homestay or resort stay.

A lady standing on the canal bank at a village along the backwaters.

Be-lavie Tip: The boast do not cruise during the night. They will usually moor after sunset around 19:00 so that any fishing activity cannot be disturbed. Additionally this allows the crew on the boat to also rest.

What to Expect From a Kerala Houseboat

Depending upon which Houseboat you opt for and the company you make your reservation with, these vessels come in a variety of sizes and range, from basic class right through to uber luxurious. Some are reported to have spas with therapist on board as well as swimming pools. 

We opted for a one bedroom houseboat which was pretty intimate for a couple, however, the large Houseboats can have up to ten bedrooms. Some are single deck whilst others may have two (like ours).

Be-lavie Tip: The smaller one and two bedroom Houseboats are able to cruise along the narrower waterways whilst the bigger Houseboats are not able to do this due to their wide berth and are best for short trips and day trips. 

You can expect that most of the Houseboats will have a living room, dining room, ensuite bathroom and very comfortable bed. They come fully equipped with air conditioning and modern amenities. There is an on board chef who is on hand to make all meals and prepare snacks and guests are well catered for with traditional Keralan food prepared according to their dietary requirements.

Beautiful Kerala Backwaters: women washing clothes near the bankso fthe backwaters in Alleppey.

How to Select a Houseboat Company

There are around 1.200 houseboats in Kerala with approximately 700 that operate in the main Alleppey and Kumarakom waterways, it can be difficult to choose which company to book with. You may want to take into consideration things like reviews, customer service as well as the class of the boats and if they have a priority towards sustainability. The Kerala Tourism Board has classified houseboats as being standard, deluxe, premium and luxury. 

How Many Crew Members are on the Overnight Cruise?

Don’t think you’ll be all by yourself on your houseboat.  A relaxing stay on the beautiful Kerala backwaters means you can literally sit back and relax. On our particular houseboat, we had a captain, who takes care of making sure you traverse the waters safely and calmly, a cook, who is responsible for cooking all your meals and providing drinks as well as a skipper who also doubled up as a waiter and informed us all about the backwaters and what extra activities could be done during the cruise.

Although you are left to enjoy the cruise for much of the overnight route, it does feel like a little family on the water who are very friendly.

Captain steering the houseboat back to Alleppey at the end of the cruise

Be-lavie Tip: Please note the crew do not have meals with guests and they do stop for lunch and moor the boat. They also hang out towards the back of the boat in their quarters when they are not attending to their duties onboard.

Pickadly Houseboats

We booked our overnight houseboat stay with Pickadly Houseboats based in Alleppey. 

Luxury Royal Suite house boat by Pickadly

The class of houseboat we were allocated is the ‘Royal Suite’ and is the most luxurious option that the Pickadly Houseboats do. On the lower level there is a living room, fully contained bedroom, bathroom with shower as well as a Jacuzzi bath. The bedroom can only be accessed via the living room with the area being fully glassed. Upstairs there is an indoor living area which doubles up as a dining room with an outside sun deck. Its great to sit out on the sun deck and watch the serene backwater scenes passing you by. 

Beautiful Kerala backwaters: Double bed in the bedroom of the Pickadly Houseboat
Beautiful Kerala backwaters: Bathroom basin in Pickadly houseboat with brown tiles on the wall.
Jacuzzi bath tub in the private bathroom with views out to the backwaters through the large windows. Pickadly Royal Suite houseboat
2 chairs and a table in front of a window looking out to the backwaters, in the houseboat bedroom

What Should You Expect During the Overnight Cruise?

  • Check in is around 12:30pm at the Pickadly Houseboat office where you’ll need to sign the usual check in documents as you do at a hotel.
  • You’ll be walked over to the Houseboat mooring area for the company and meet the crew who also take care of your luggage.
  • Sip on fresh coconut juices and snack on the fruit in the fruit basket provided whilst settling in.
Beautiful Kerala backwaters: Basket of fruit and coconut in the living room of the Pickadly houseboat.
  • Lunch is served on the top deck around 13:00 (the boat will moor for an hour).
  • Post lunch you have the option of partaking in either an Ayurvedic massage or a small fishing boat ride along the smaller backwaters. This allows you to see a lot more of the rural life, paddy fields and buildings alongside where the local people live. This lasts around 45 minutes and incurs an extra fee of INR 250 per person.
Beautiful Kerala backwaters: Bejal sitting at the front of a small fishing boat gliding through the canals surrounded by villages and locals on the banks.
  • Back on the Houseboat, it’s afternoon tea time, You’’ be served tea or coffee or drinks of your choice with some freshly made banana fry. 
  • Have some time to relax and unwind before watching the sun go down. The sunsets along the backwaters are absolutely stunning.
  • The boat will moor for the evening and at 19:30 dinner will be served after which the rest of the night is your own as the crew head up to bed and relax.
Evening in the backwaters with a light orange and pink sky. A palm tree is framing the photo with the glistening waters in the background
  • At 19:30, the captain will set off and refuel the houseboat. 
  • 08:00 A hearty breakfast is served whilst you watch the morning scenes on the canals unfold. 
  • 09:15, you will be dropped off to the original point of embarking and escorted back to the Pickadly office.
Locals queuing for a rickshaw on the banks of the backwaters near Alleppey

What is The Food Like on the Houseboat Cruise?

Food is fresh and delicious based upon whether you are vegetarian or a meat eater. The company will ask for your dietary requirements upon booking.

Sample Vegetarian Menu

Lunch

Hot and sour soup, veg sweet corn, plain rice, green salad, sambar, thoran, avaiyal, pachadi, pickles, curd, pappad, dessert of payasam.
Chapathi & Dall fry for vegetarians.

Beautiful Kerala backwaters: Lunch served on the top deck of the Pickadly Royal Suite houseboat

Tea time

Tea or Coffee Banana Fritters, Onion Pakoda, French-fry’s.

Beautiful Kerala backwaters: white teapot with masala chai being poured and 2 black tea cup. A plate of banana fry and views of the backwaters in the background.

Dinner

Panner mutter masala, chappatis, pilau rice, Thoran, Curd, pickles, Gopi manjuri Bed dessert is a fruit salad with ice-cream.

Breakfast

Fruit juice, Bread butter jam, eggs to order Cold/Hot milk, Puttu-kadala curry, Dosa – Sambar & Chutney with tea and coffee.

Flat lay photograph of breakfast on the houseboat. Toast, idli sambhar, fruits, ornage juice and coffee on a red checked table cloth,

The Details

  • Location: Valamparambil, Avalokkunnu P.O. Alappuzha-6. I Tel. +91 944617109 / +91 9388834291
  • Find it Here: Map Location
  • Further Info: Website
  • Overnight houseboat prices (Royal Suite): INR 20,000 – 28,000 (£190-£264)

Responsible Ways To See The Backwaters

It is very handy that the Keralan Tourism Board have put in so many measures and guidelines to ensure sustainability and responsible tourism is a priority. You can read more at Kerala Mission Tourist Board Society

Unfortunately although there are government regulations that houseboats have to follow, many are not policed at all times. We discovered the unsustainability of cruising the backwaters on our trip and therefore have looked into alternative responsible ways to explore the  backwaters. the article above was very useful and we have summarised some of the points here below.

When researching a houseboat company independently, ensure: 

  • Whether the boat has a septic tank and waste should be dumped at a designated location rather than into the backwaters.
  • The community around the backwaters, fish and bathe in the canals so it’s best to do your research. 

To be best informed before embarking on your backwater journey, refer to the below points to consider exploring in a more sustainable and responsible way.

  • Select a houseboat that is eco-friendly – Head to Eco Houseboats to learn all about their sustainable forward houseboats. These include features such as solar panel use, septic tank installation and eco-friendly building material such as coir to name a few.
  • Choose to explore the backwaters by bicycle – You’ll get many authentic landscapes and scenes of local life in the backwaters exploring via bikes. This gives a wonderful more personal experience as you’ll pass by shop keepers, toddy stalls, chai stops, schools are more.
  • Stay on an eco-friendly resort or hotel on the backwaters – Do you research in finding an eco-friendly resort, such as the The Punnamadu Resort, who have a number of sustainable practices in place. The Punnamadu Resort in Alleppey, is one we considered for our own trip and are involved in recycling water, where greywater is used in the garden, Additional they have a composting process and have made a pledge not to cut down any trees.
  • Take a Kayak tour on the backwaters – Kayaks allow you to visit the smaller non-touristy waterways, villages and seeing the hidden gems  without the carbon that it released from motorised boats. As kayaking is quiter than boat motors there is the possibility to see more wildlife like birds in particular.
  • Stay in a homestay in Alleppey – Try local food, be exposed to the local lifestyle and learn the authentic way of life with your hosts. A great insight into traditions and culture giving a fully immersive experience.
  • Eat local vegetarian food – Vegetarian food is delicious in Kerala, One half of us is vegetarian. Special occasion feasts, like Onam, Sadya is where a traditional vegetarian meal is served on a banana leaf, containing up to 26 different dishes complementing each other.
  • Take canoes or ferries instead of the houseboat cruise – see State Water Transport Department for more information. The local smaller boats which look rather like canoes can take visitors down the smaller waterways and this most definitely feels like the ‘reel’ backwaters where all you see is rural scenes of life in the area,
Canoe sailing down the Kerala backwaters with palm trees in the background

Sustainable Backwater Day Tours From Kochi

Half Day Village Backwater Eco Country Boat Cruise :Group Tour from Fort Kochin

Full Day Backwater Village Punting Boat Cruise

Excursion to Rice Farms of Kerala.

Boat Races on the Beautiful Kerala Backwaters

One of the most popular events that occurs on the beautiful Kerala backwaters are the boat races which are mainly held in Alleppey and Kollam, It’s quite an exciting time for the backwaters where lots of tourists as well as locals gather on the banks to watch and cheer on the boat racers. Some of the major boat races include, Aranmula Snake Boat Race, Alleppey Nehru Trophy Boat Race, Kumarakom Sri Narayana Jayanthi Boat Race, Kallada Boat Race at Kollam, Indira Gandhi Boat Race at Kochi, Champakulam Moolam Boat Race, Payippad Jalotsavam, Thazhathangadi Boat Race in Kottayam and Kumarakom Boat Race are the major boat races held in Kerala Backwaters every year.

We were lucky enough to see the boat race practices in the early morning during our time on the backwaters. It’s pretty thrilling and fascinating to watch the synchronisation in rowing of the snake boats.

Snake boat race training early morning on the backwaters

Things to do in Alleppey After Exploring the Backwaters

Following your time in the backwaters, you may wish to check out Alleppey for a a day, It’s worth a visit, here and our suggestions on what to see:

Alleppey Lighthouse

Built in 1862, this is the first of its kind of Lighthouse in the the Arabian sea coast of Kerala. 

You can climb to the top and look at the views which stretch out to the Arabian Sea, It can get pretty warm in the tower so early morning or late afternoon is a better time to visit. 

Red and white striped exterior of the Alleppey lighthouse with a palm tree framing the photo
  • Location: CCSB Road, Civil Station Ward, Alappuzha, Kerala 688012 I Tel. +91 4772253459 I Map Location 
  • Opening Hours: 09:00-11:45, 14:00-17:30 Mon-Thrs.
  • Entrance Fee: INR 20 Indian Citizens & INR 50 for foreign nationals.

Alleppey Beach

If you can spare the time, it’s worth spending a couple of hours at Alleppey Beach. It is pretty close to the Lighthouse and has a pier which is over 150 years old. The beach hosts many local events such as the annual Alleppey beach festival and sand art festivals to name a couple.

  • Map Location 

Weaving & Saree Stores

There are lots of weaving houses with saree shops attached to them. This is most definitely interesting to go and see. Watch the skillful weavers make traditional Kerala sarees, two piece suits as well as shawls and other forms of clothing. It’s also a great opportunity to buy some locally made traditional attire for gifts. 

Men weaving sarees at the showrooms in Alleppey
Sarees at the weaving showroom in Alleppey, Kerala.

Be-lavie Tip: Bartering is quite common so make sure to make a deal if you’re buying more than one item. 

International Coir Museum. 

Perhaps one of the most interesting places to visit for an hour is the International Coir Museum. The museum showcases the traditional processes and development of the coir industry, including wetting and fibre extraction, advent of mechanisation in coir sector. You can watch a short video film that takes visitors through the world of coir over the ages and gives information on the origin and growth of the industry and the latest developments made through research and development. 

A basket full of brown coconut shells ready to be made into coir.

There is the opportunity to see the weavers at work as this is where those learning the Coir industry come to train. You’ll see theory classes being undertaken as well as weavers making rugs, baskets, carpets and many more things. There is an onsite shop filled with souvenirs too.

Lady weaving rugs from coloured coir using a traditional machine at the International Coir Museum
Pink and purple coir thread on a large bobbin at the International Coir Museum
  • Location: Kanyakumari Hwy, Kalavoor, Alappuzha, Kerala 688522. I Tel. +91 4772258067 I Website I Map Locaton 
  • Opening Hours: Tuesday-Saturday 09L30-17:00, Closed on Mondays
  • Entrance Fee: INR 250
Click For Suggested Tour: Cloth Weaving, Coir Spinning, Kerala Lunch

Frequently Asked Questions – Beautiful Kerala Backwaters

Which is the Best Month to Visit the Kerala Backwaters?

The best time to visit the backwaters in between October and March, but this is also peak season. To avoid the crowds October and March are perfect.

When is the Worst Time to Visit the Kerala Backwaters?

June to August can see torrential rain and widespread flooding.

How Can Tourists Ensure Houseboats are Licensed and Safe?

It is best to do your research with each company and go by recommendations by those that have travelled previously. Eco-friendly houseboats will have the appropriate certification to support their practices from the Kerala Tourism.

Is it Safe to Swim in Kerala Backwaters?

We wouldn’t advise on this as it is dangerous with large boats passing. It is not allowed on the larger canals and we didn’t see anyone swimming in the smaller waterways either.

What is the Most Romantic Thing About the Backwaters?

Most definitely the sunset. Golden hour on the backwaters is picture perfect and looks beautiful with the red orange sky as a backdrop to the palm fringed banks and the glistening water.

Beautiful Kerala backwaters: Sunset scenes over the waterways with palm trees in the background. A deep orange colour fills the sky

Does Cruising the Backwaters Feel Quite Touristy?

Our honest opinion is yes. generally the number one thing that most visitors to Kerala want to do is check off cruising on a houseboat. We went in December, over the Christmas holidays, and when you first set off (see image below), it does seem pretty crowded and busy, but once you veer off down the interconnecting canals, things do get a lot more quieter. Houseboats are a pretty big business in Kerala and the great thing is that more companies are paying attention to ensuring their houseboats are made and adhere to more sustainable practices. Of course like most things they are not 100% eco-friendly.

Boats queuing up to leave the Alleppey mooring space.

Cruising The Beautiful Kerala Backwaters: Round-Up 

The stunning backwaters of Kerala are unique, beautiful, serene and an area that anyone visiting the region has to discuss. Hopefully the article has addressed many of the concerns and questions visitors may have with regards to houseboat selection, sustainable and responsible choices. 

The backwaters have a lot to do and discover for those wishing to have  a slower pace of travel and really get into the authentic style of life the community has in this region. If you are planning on spending a few days in the area, it is definitely worth checking out the town of Alleppey or Alappuzha as it is also referred to, which will give you a contrast of life between the town and backwater life.

Beautiful Kerala backwaters: Bejal standing with hand on palm tree wearing a blue checked dress on the small waterways
Bejal looking at sunset from top deck of Houseboat in Alleppey

Related Articles: Beautiful Kerala Backwaters

  • How To Plan The Best 10 day Kerala Itinerary
  • Beautiful Eco-friendly Hotels in Kerala & Their Sustainability Practices
  • What Makes Kerala One of India’s Most Eco-Friendly States
  • How to spend 48 Hours in Fort Kochi
  • A 3 Day Guide to Things To Do In Munnar
  • The Best Things to do in Thekkady: A Travel Guide
  • A guide to the best things to do on beautiful Marari Beach 
  • A guide to the best things to do on beautiful Marari Beach  
  • A Guide on What to pack for Kerala
  • 10 of the best authentic tours and activities in Kerala

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Bejal

I’m Bejal, an ex-scientist turned travel writer and content creator. I have visited 75 plus countries, including an around the world trip, which makes me quite the expert in crafting intricate itineraries! My travel style places an emphasis on sustainable and responsible adventures that supports the planet, local businesses and communities at its core. Read my guides and itineraries which aim to inspire you to create your own travel and vegetarian foodie jaunts to less visited spots of popular destinations as well as more unique locales. I have a soft spot for boutique eco-hotels here too! Be-lavie is all about mindful travel with a sprinkling of luxury.

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  • Linda (LD Holland)
    23rd March 2024

    We enjoyed our first look at India when we visited but we seemed to rush from spot to spot. Enjoying time on a houseboat in the Kerala backwaters seems like a much more relaxing way to enjoy a few days. But good to know we would need to pick the right time of year. The houseboats look well outfitted. Maybe we would be lucky enough to catch a boat race when we travelled. One day we will get back to India.

    Reply
    • Bejal
      Linda (LD Holland)
      23rd March 2024

      Hello Linda. Aww that is the thing with India, such a vast country and requires time. Absolutely if you do head to Kerala, a houseboat is a lovely way to spend a day or two and there are also other ways in which you can explore the beautiful backwaters.

      Reply

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I’m Bejal, an ex-scientist turned travel writer and content creator. I have visited 75 plus countries, including an around the world trip, which makes me quite the expert in crafting intricate itineraries! I places an emphasis on sustainable and responsible adventures that supports the planet, local businesses and communities at its core. Read my guides and itineraries which aim to inspire you to create your own travel and vegetarian foodie jaunts to less visited spots of popular destinations as well as more unique locales. I have a soft spot for boutique eco-hotels here too! Be-lavie is all about mindful travel with a sprinkling of luxury.

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